TINA ROSE explores an Orkney textile design company with an International reputation for innovation.

In 2004 a record number of 23 Scottish designers were selected to take part in Chelsea Crafts Fair in London, Europe’s finest craft fair,  and amongst the group was Orkney based textile designer Ingrid Tait.

Ingrid completed a BA at Middlesex Polytechnic (now university) followed by an MA at the Royal College of Art in London in 1989. She then returned to her home at Stromness on Orkney and set up her own company, Tait & Style.

The heart of the company’s activities is needlepunching, which she first became aware of at a spinning course being used to bond unspun wool to make felt fabric, and which she has used to develop a new bonding/embroidery technique.  She has also developed innovative designs using hand and machine knitting, as well as various embroidery and wet-felting techniques.

It was when she was studying for her BA that she received her first commission which was to produce a range of scarves for Liberty’s of London.  She explains “This initial collection combined abstract felt shapes, fleece and slub wool.  The venture was a success, and Liberty’s have continued to buy my collections every since.”

Talking about her inspirations she said “In terms of design, my influences come from all over the world, and include fine as well as ‘primitive’ art, and textiles of all sorts.  Orkney itself with its extraordinary light, stirring landscapes and romantic heritage has also been an inspiration.

“In terms of technique, however, although I have seen a handful of novel and interesting fabrics produced by needlepunchers, mostly in Japan, it is the challenge and excitement of the technique itself that keeps drawing me back to further experiments and further leaps of the imagination.”

The company has gained an international reputation for their innovative fabrics and they have worked with many leading designers including John Galliano, Dior, Givenchy, Kenzo and John Rocha.

One designer who helped and encouraged Ingrid before starting her business was Paul Smith who commissioned a large amount of fabric from her after her graduation show at the Royal College.  It was because of this support that she tries to help other new graduates develop their ideas and invites them to come to Orkney and work with her on new collections.

Summing up her career to date she says “I have learned a lot over the past years since I came across the needlepunching machine for the first time, but am convinced that the best, most innovative ideas are still waiting just around the corner.  New fabrics, new needles, new punches.  Watch this space!”

Her autumn/winter collection 2004/2005 features scarves, hats, gloves and beasties.

Contact Tait & Style at Brae Studio, Old Academy, Stromness, Orkney KW16 3AW tel 01856 851186 or email info@taitandstyle.co.uk

© Tina Rose, 2004