Ullapool, 19-20 September 2008

Broken Records

ALTHOUGH this may have been my fourth (and final) festival of 2008, it was the first time I had managed to make it to Loopallu. Having enjoyed many family holidays with our caravan in Ullapool in my younger years, the draw to return was huge, especially combined with the strong musical line-up Loopallu has become famous for.

Loopallu is held on the campsite in the centre of the village, and this must certainly be one of the attractions of the festival – proper showers and toilet block (although though your reviewer opted to stay in one of Ullapool’s hotels for this festival – my camping gene only operates in the summer months), proper paths and roads throughout the site ensuring that should the weather take a turn for the worse there would be no mud bath al la Hydro Connect, and being right in the centre of the village means revellers are no more than a 5 minute walk away from the pubs, shops and restaurants of Ullapool. Of course, the best thing of all is the view from the campsite, over Loch Broom and over to the Summer Isles.

So after checking into my hotel on Friday afternoon, it was a quick stroll down to the festival site. With programmes being given out free with your wristband (take note other festival organisers), I was just in time to catch the Ullapool Pipe Band finishing their set in the Big Top (Loopallu’s one and only stage). Playing in the centre of the large tent, the band seemed to draw an enthusiastic crowd, who surrounded the band clapping and dancing along to the pipes.

Despite only having one tent, I found there was still plenty to do in between bands. A drumming tent seemed to be in full force all weekend, and the Fired Art tent kept the children (and the young at heart) busy with activities such as face painting, making Loopallu flags and also a giant skipping rope made an appearance more than once over the weekend. Of course, being in the village centre, a quick wander around the village was also an option. The festival site itself didn’t have any market stalls, common to so many festivals, a conscious decision by organisers given the short distance into the village.

Back inside the tent, Edinburgh band Broken Records were next up. Playing a range of instruments from guitars to trumpets and violins to glockenspiels, their unique sound combines traditional European folk music with modern Scottish music, and the crowd appeared to love the fusion, with many singing along to the tunes. Speaking to people after the set, it appeared that many had caught the band on the Loop the Loop fringe tour, in the week leading up to the festival.

Before catching the next band, it was time for the all important trip to find some food. Having been spoiled at every other festival this year by the Argyll Fine Foods tent, I was disappointed to find out they were not present at Loopallu. However, my disappointment was short lived, having found an organic buffalo burger stand. Having spent 6 months in Canada a year or two ago, I had came to love buffalo burgers (a much healthier alternative to their beef rivals) and can rarely find them back in Scotland.

Judging by the queues at the BBQ stand all weekend, I think they might have a few more converts. Pudding came in the form of a freshly made crepe, stuffed with chocolate spread and cookies. With not a greasy chip or burger van in sight, it’s safe to say that I never went hungry the whole weekend.

Due to the queues at said food stalls, I was late in arriving for Frightened Rabbit’s appearance on stage, the band already half way through their set when I arrived back in the Big Top. Having missed them at this year’s Belladrum festival, I was keen to see if they lived up to the current hype surrounding the band. And I would have to say they did, if the mood of the Loopy crowd is anything to go by. Their infectious tunes really lifted the atmosphere of the tent, and their distinctive Scottish sound was a real crowd pleaser.

Next up was another band with a distinctive Scottish sound, the Vatersay Boys. The five piece band are something of a festival favourite at Loopallu, having played all but one of the previous festivals. Their passion for the traditional music they play came through in every song and the whole tent, slowly getting busier with each act that came on, was dancing along to each and every one. Before long, their set was coming to an end, but everyone seemed to be leaving on a high, exhausted maybe from all the dancing, but very happy.

Having seen King Creosote previously, and not being overly impressed, I gave his set a swerve to go in search of some more light refreshment. A savoury crepe this time, washed down by a quick drink in the beer tent, left me plenty of time to catch the closing act of the night, The Levellers. Not being a huge fan, I decided only to stay for a few songs, before heading over to catch a band at the late night fringe. The general view of people I spoke to later, was that I had made the right decision as the Levellers were not at their best.

One of the other great things about Loopallu is the aforementioned fringe. Several pubs around the village host late night sessions by bands, some who the play the main festival and other who are only there for the fringe. The Family Mahone, fronted by BBC Radio 2’s Mark Radcliffe, were in fine form in the Ceilidh Place on the first day of their World Tour (the only other dates being Saturday night in the Big Top and Sunday night in the Arch Inn, Ullapool). With their wide selection of folk/rock songs (or drinking songs, as they are known by the band), the whole pub, and the queue outside, enjoyed every minute of their set.

What seemed like only a short time later, last orders were called at the bar, and it was time to head back to my comfy hotel bed, tired but happy and looking forward to the rest of the weekend.

© Elizabeth Sinclair, 2008

Links

• Loopallu