Belladrum, 10 August2007

Peatbog Faeries (photo - Jennie Macfie).

A MEDIAEVAL eye-witness account of Lughnasa, the Celtic harvest festival traditionally celebrated at the start of August, describes “Trumpets, harps, hollow-throated horns, pipers, timpanists, unwearied…fiddlers, gleemen, bone-players and bag-pipers, a rude crowd, noisy, profane, roaring and shouting.”

Centuries later, apart from ‘rude’ and ‘profane’ – the Bella crowd is remarkable for its good behaviour – that description is still good for the fourth Tartan Heart Festival.

The Caledonian Ceilidh Trail struck the first notes on the Seedlings stage at noon, heralding a particularly strong Highland contingent including Phil and Aly on their 20th anniversary tour, Blazin’ Fiddles (on top form) and the return of the Peatbog Faeries (on stonkingly good form, but more of that later).

Though music is at the heart of Belladrum, and there were six stages’ worth of performers, it would have been entirely possible to have a whale of a time without them. Bella has definitely hit her stride with a full, family-friendly entertainment programme every afternoon and evening (Outsider Festival, please note) so it was “pick ‘n’ mix your own festival”.

At the Verb Garden tent there was an esoteric menu from firewalking to talking with the charismatic Julian Cope (later seen embracing Wonder Woman outside the Mojo signing tent). Children were spoiled for choice with storytelling, puppet shows, films, workshops of all kinds, YogaBugs classes in Madame Fifi’s Dance Parlour, and more.

Grown ups had dance classes and workshops too, and did I mention the Buddhist Temple? Many festival goers had obeyed the injunction to come in fancy dress so fairies and superheroes rubbed shoulders, and shins, with the Puppet Lab’s stiltwalking Alien Invaders. Twin Elvises serenaded passers by with customised tunes and a pair of cockroaches danced the Highland fling with precision.

Seduced by Rory Macleod’s very fine performance at the Potting Shed, I missed Senegal’s Nuru Kane, and longed, not for the last time, for a Time Turner gadget as used by Harry Potter; but found some consolation in the Hothouse tent, crammed full of Jyrojets fans enjoying a tightly polished show.

Nick Harper (son of Roy) followed Ben Taylor (son of not only James Taylor but also Carly Simon) in the Grassroots Tent, opening with his version of ‘Whole Lotta Love’, confidently delivered vocal acrobatics easily equalling Robert Plant at his best, and without pausing for breath segued into a cheerfully irreverent take on a classic Elvis song. Dazzling stuff. He is said to be anxious to tour the Highlands; promoters, snap him up if you get the chance.

At the Venus Fly Trap Palais, the Luminescent Orchestrii from Brooklyn, N.Y., delivered an exhilarating burst of their ‘Gypsy Tango Klezmer Punk’ music in preparation for their regular stint on the fringe at the Spiegeltent. Traditional songs from Central Europe mingled with songs written by the band members and the happily clapping audience included [festival director] Joe Gibbs himself, taking a minute out to tap a toe.

A slimline Bruce MacGregor was on walkabout before the Blazin’ Fiddles set, also at the Venus Fly Trap Palais. Busy with Bogbain Farm, he bemoaned the lack of time to practise and recalled the virtuoso who said, “When I don’t practise for a week, my audience notices; when I don’t practice for a day, I notice.” There was no sign that the capacity crowd had noticed any lack of practice as he and his fellow Blazers positively sizzled later.

There was a chance to see a genuine, living Scottish legend as the magnificent Jackie Leven traded stories and songs in relaxed style with Robert Fisher and Michael Weston King. Programming across six stages must be a nightmare, but this trio might have been better in one of the tents where seams were bulging for acts like Martha Wainwright, Blazin’ Fiddles, Bishopriggs’ Amy Macdonald (superb) and bedsit queen Sandi Thom.

On the Grassroots Stage, 6 Day Riot featured Scottish singer-songwriter Tamara Schlesinger, fetching in a scarlet cocktail dress and hat, and a repertoire sprinkled with Eastern European folk tunes, a bluegrass twang and a soupcon of guitar mayhem – now that’s what I call fusion.

I tore myself away to see Martha Wainwright who was playing a year late – and parted from her guitar by airport baggage handling; luckily Mull’s Sorren Maclean had lent her his. In a frenzy of anticipation, every fragment of the soundcheck was cheered by an eager audience, set to roar and shout loudly in true Lughnasa fashion for the duration.

Ms Wainwright began with a mournful song, beautifully sung and played, but somehow not very in tune with the festival vibe, so my feet took me over to the Seedlings Stage just in time to witness an uplifting set from Inverness band, Lowtide Revelry. An interesting cabaret flavour and some great musicians, definitely a band worth checking out.

Aussie brother and sister Angus and Julia Stone’s gentle, tuneful songs evoked the Eagles, America and Portishead, and soon won over the Grassroots audience. A light drizzle threatened but backed off, then the sun broke through the clouds just as the Peatbog Faeries began to reclaim their rightful place on the Garden stage.

In minutes the arena was full and the terraces were dancing. The Luminescent Orchestrii’s Rima and Sarah, no mean fiddlers themselves, were entranced by Adam Sutherland’s playing – “Awesome!”, was their verdict. The rest of the Faeries were awesome as well, particularly Peter Morrison whose pipes and whistles tear the heartstrings.

A red sky promised a fine Saturday (it lied) as the Alabama 3 played the theatrical, crowd-pleasing, country-accented music that has made them firm festival favourites, before the Magic Numbers demonstrated that their brand of harmoniously soulful pop is, perhaps surprisingly, perfect for Belladrum. They won all hearts, even the “I never listen to the charts” brigade, some of whom may well start listening now.

Elsewhere, the magical Minuscule of Sound was open for business with its usual endless queue, the Dukes’ Box was jumping, the Glasgow International Adult Late Night Comedy Festival had taken over the Verb Garden and the Woodland Orchestra was overwhelmed by amateur drummers. A vintage Friday at Belladrum.

© Jennie Macfie, 2007

Links

• Tartan Heart Festival